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Interest ... Trivia ... Hints Tips and Links ... |
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Interest ... Trivia ... Hints Tips and Links ... |
CYCLING HISTORY...
The First Bicycles… |
THE DRAISIENNE: As it is with most 'inventions' it is always difficult to decide who or what came first… The earliest evidence of any device that might resemble our concept of a 'bicycle' was 'the draisienne'… made of wood and propelled by the rider simply pushing his feet along the ground, it was a crude, and clumsy , and impractical means of 'rider propelled' transport. 'The draisienne' was invented by Baron Karl de Drais de Sauerbrun and exhibited in Paris on April 6, 1818. |
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KIRKPATRICK MACMILLEN: Kirkpatrick Macmillan, a Scottish blacksmith from Dumfriesshire then went on to experiment with the idea, and in 1839 produced the first practical design. Instead of having pedals attached directly to the rear wheel, Macmillan's machine had two swinging cranks mounted at the front. The rider rested his feet on the cranks and swung them back and forth, moving a pair of rods that were linked to the rear wheel. The front wheel was about 75cm in diameter, and the rear 100 cm., both wheels rimmed with iron bands. It is recorded that the machine could be propelled at a 'brisk pace'. And in 1842 Macmillan challenged a post carriage to a race and won! |
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THE VELOCIPEDE: Moving on to the 1860's the 'Velocipede' came onto the scene built by the Michaux family of Paris. Its was of iron and wood construction and not having any springs it earned it the nickname 'boneshaker'. It was driven by pedaling cranks fixed directly to the front wheel. To increase the distance covered by each turn of the cranks, the front wheel was progressively enlarged until, 'the ordinary', or penny-farthing, bicycle emerged, the wheel of which would just go under the crotch of the rider! The 'Penny-farthing' nickname coming from the smallest and largest British coins that were then in common use. |
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MOVING TO AMERICA: By 1865 the Michaux family were producing 400 machines a year. The year 1866 saw their mechanic, Pierre Lallement, emigrate to the United States, and along with James Carroll of Ansonia they took out the first U.S. patent. |
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BRITISH IMPROVEMENTS: A Sussex inventor James Starley was in 1855 living in London and employed in the manufacture of sewing machines, but after inventing and patenting many ideas for the improvement of sewing machines, he moved to Coventry in 1868 and turned his attention to improving the bicycle. His first bicycle, the 'Coventry', was soon followed in 1971 by the 'Ariel', which was noted for its use of centre pivot steering, and it is this machine that is considered by many historians to be the first true bicycle. |
Technical Improvements…
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COVENTRY PLAYS IT'S PART: The Coventry Sewing Machine Company, took on the manufacture of 400 of the Michaux bicycles ('Velocipedes' or 'Penny-farthings'). The original intention was that they were to be marketed and sold in France, but these plans were thwarted by the outbreak of the Franco-German war, and this forced the company to sell them in England instead! James Starley, the foreman of the Coventry Company, set out to extensivly improve the primitive machines. First of all reducing the weight of the clumsy vélocipède. |
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GEARING AND LIGHTER WHEELS: As an early improvement to the Penny-farthing Starley developed a gear that allowed the wheel to be turned twice for each revolution of the pedals, and made the wheels much lighter in weight by using iron with tensioned wire spokes. These consisted of a single length of wire looped through holes in the rim and hub to which he applied tension by screwing up threads, this invention was later improved by the introduction in 1874 of eyed and threaded nipples to hold individual spokes. |
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SPOKES AS WE KNOW THEM: Later in 1874 Starley devised tangential spoking as an improvement from the simple radial system. This considerably eased the sideways stresses imposed on the spokes. The effectiveness of this method was endorsed by a party of riders who rode from London to John O'Groats, some 690 miles, in 15 days. The bicycles used typically weighed about 50 pounds but could be built as light as 21 pounds for track racing, with the driven wheel ranging in diameter between 40 to 60 inches, and usually 'tailored' to the riders leg length! |
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CHAINS AND BRAKES: The first cycle to use a chain drive was designed by H.J. Lawson in 1874, constructed with 2 wheels both the same diameter, with the rear driven by a chain just like a modern cycle. Called the 'Safety' bicycle it had major advances in stability and braking, and of course was easier to mount! By 1885 it was being manufactured by John K. Starley, James Starley's nephew, and was known as Rover Safety Model, and by 1889 dominated the market. |
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AIR AT LAST: One of the last hurdles preventing the popularity of cycling was, that in spite of the fact that the solid rims had by now been shod with solid rubber this was still not able to absorb the irregularities of the ill-constructed roads of the day. However in 1888 John Boyd Dunlop, a Belfast animal vet, introduced the pneumatic tyre, and the combination of his pneumatic tyre and Starley's safety bicycle gave an immense impetus to the bicycle industry. |
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THE DIAMOND... A GIRLS BEST FRIEND: In 1890 the bicycle industry had become reorganized and was able to build inexpensive, practical machines. By 1893 the design of the bicycle stabilized into the modern diamond-pattern frame with roller-chain drive and pneumatic-tyred wheels. The newer models could even freewheel and were easily braked. |
SOME SELECTED CYCLING HINTS AND TIPS...
| SECURITY | |
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When possible lock you bike to an immovable object, avoid causing obstruction or danger to passers by. Don't just rely on securing by a wheel, on your return you may find a wheel is all that left! Simply locking 2 cycles together is not foolproof, thieves don't always ride off on your cycle, they may be using a van! |
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If you value your cycle then
identity marking is essential . . . This not only deters the thief, and proves ownership,
but ensures your cycles return if it is later recovered by the police . . . Popular
methods are: Postcode stamping: We can stamp your postcode and house number into the frame. Electronic data tagging: The utimate system! A microchip is secured within the frame and when scanned by police your registered details are displayed. Ultra Violet Marker: Don't forget this DIY method, use a UV marker (available at most stationers) useful as a temporary method until a more permanent system can be implemented. |
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If you own an expensive cycle and often leave it unattended, then a high grade security device is essential, (e.g. U-lock) lightweight chains or small padlocks are no match for the professional thief's boltcutters or mini-hacksaw! |
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Ensure you lighting is up to the legal standard, not all lights conform to required legal standards, and without good lighting and reflective surfaces it's your life you are putting at risk! |
| REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE | |
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When replacing a punctured inner-tube, check the tyre (inside and out) for thorns, glass, nails etc. It's easy to forget to perform this simple check! |
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When replacing or fitting a new tube inflate slightly before seating the tyre, this helps the tyre to seat properly, and makes the job easier. Also use the loosly fitted valve stem to push inner-tube well inside tyre walls to prevent trapping tube. |
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Brakes rubbing on one side? SPORTS BIKE: Try a quarter turn on the attachment nut at brake rear, to tilt the brake assembly. MOUNTAIN BIKE: Modern V-brakes have screw adjusters either side. |
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Lever Travel... If you are able to pull the brake lever back more than 2cm your brakes need adjusting NOW! |
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Chain rubs on fron mech? . . . Simply move the gear lever in small shifts to prevent chain rub. |
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Rear Mech and chain catches spokes?. . . On Shimano mechs simply screw in the lower screw quarter turn at a time, until noise stops, then have your dealer check it for you. |
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Chain Skips or Jumps? . . . This can be a 'stiff-link' free by bending chain a few times at the stiff joint. If 'stiff-link' is not the problem then chain and block are probably worn and need replacing. |
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Bike hard to pedal? . . . Then
check the following as they are not always obvious: Tyres too soft? Saddle too low? Brakes rubbing? Wheel rubbing frame? |
| KEEPING COMFORTABLE | |
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SADDLE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT: With the ball of your foot on the pedal, and the padal in it's lowest position, your knee should just have a very slight bend in it. |
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HANDLEBAR ADJUSTMENTS: Slight adjustment of both height and angle can have marked effect on wrist and hand pain. |
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SADDLE: Should normally be horizontal, but tipping down slightly can help solve pains in the groin. |
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SADDLE SORE? Don't be a glutton for punishment, different saddles and construction suit different people and uses, consult your dealer about a more suitable saddle designed for your needs! |
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KNEE PAINS? Your probably over-stressing your knees, try to use a lower gear (pedalling faster but moving slower), or lower the saddle slightly. |
| ON THE ROAD... 'Get you home, or to a repair shop' | |
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STRIPPED THREAD? On a vital nut . . . reverse the nut, swop-over with a less vital one, or remove washers to enable nut to bit on unused thread area. |
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BROKEN CHAIN? Temporarily link with steel wire (spoke?) looped between holes, then pedal gently and walk up hills! |
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NO SPARE TUBE? Tie a knot in the tube to isolate the leak! and refit |
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TAKE WITH YOU . . . - Small simple First Aid kit. - Food and Water... Chocolate, flapjacks, cake, bananas, are good standbys - Loose change for a 'phone (your mobile may not work!) - A map - Waterproof - Essential tools (Tyre pump, spanners, tyre levers, screwdrivers, pliers) - Simple repair aids (General Purpose Tape, string, wire, cable-ties, wiping rag, super-glue) - Essential spares (tube, puncture repair kit, etc. ) |
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AFTER A TUMBLE! . . .It's easy
to forget... but you must check. . . - Saddle loose or askew - Wheels bent or kinked (spin and observe) - Gears: lift wheel off ground and run through all gears (ensure derailleur will not over-travel into spokes) - Handlebars loose or askew. - Frame or forks bent - Brakes are working (don't wait for the next hill to find out!) - IF YOU HAVE HAD A NASTY FALL give yourself some recovery time before proceeding. - IF YOU HAVE SUFFERED HEAD INJURY seek medical assistance before you ride again! |
SOME HANDY
LINKS TO OTHER WEB-SITES...
(Note: You may find
that some cycle brand names do not have their own web-address, and are
represented by their main manufacturer.)